Our Lahemaa Stories and Places: Käsmu Peninsula

The Käsmu Peninsula is unique among the Lahemaa peninsulas in that it has only one village – Käsmu, with about 150 inhabitants. It is primarily known as the village of captains, but also as a beloved summer retreat for artists, writers, and scientists. Today, visitors come to Käsmu for its beautiful nature, maritime museum, and summer cultural events.

The first written records of Käsmu as a coastal village date back to the 15th century. In the 19th century, it became one of Estonia’s most important maritime villages. Dozens of long-distance captains emerged from here, ships were built, and the Käsmu Bay became an important wintering place for vessels.

Five Interesting Facts About Käsmu

• • A maritime school operated in Käsmu from 1884 to 1931, where future captains and helmsmen studied.

• • Käsmu is one of the richest places in Europe for erratic boulders, and it features a giant stone field left behind by the continental glacier nearly 12,000 years ago.

• • Käsmu Lake separated from the sea about 1,500 years ago.

• • In the 19th century, Käsmu was discovered as a summer resort by General Nikolai von Dellingshausen. He is also associated with the stone chapel of the General located in the village.

• • The Käsmu Maritime Museum operates in a former Tsarist border guard building, and there is a unique Käsmu lighthouse nearby.

What to Do in Käsmu?

• • Visit the Käsmu Maritime Museum. The private museum created by Aarne Vaik is always open and showcases the history of the captain’s village, maritime navigation, fishing, smuggling, and the sea’s significance in the lives of local people. You can also visit the Käsmu lighthouse.

• • Stroll through the village of captains. See the old white captain’s houses and tall flagpoles, visit the wooden chapel and cemetery, and find the General’s chapel. With the QR codes in the gardens of the farms, you can also discover the village’s stories independently.

• • Go to the Vana-Jüri Stones. A pleasant short walk leads through the village to the seaside Vana-Jüri Stones.

• • Explore the nature of the Käsmu Peninsula. A 14-kilometer hiking and cycling trail runs through pine forests, coastal meadows, and rocky seashores, leading to Käsmu Lake.

• • Take time for the sea. Walk in the harbor and on the beach or go to the tip of the peninsula in the evening to watch the sunset. It is worth exploring Käsmu at a leisurely pace, as many of the village’s stories and details may go unnoticed in a hurry.

A Local Guide Tells

The village elder and guide Eduard Vainu says that Käsmu is a place people often come to for the sea, but they return for the stories.

“As a guide, I see how the seemingly quiet captain’s village gradually begins to reveal its layers. Here is the sea, the forest, erratic boulders, and centuries of maritime history.”

Lahemaa guide Mari-Liis Vohl recommends discovering Käsmu even outside the summer peak season.

“From September to May, there is a true stillness here. Time seems to stand still, and it feels endless. The damp forest in autumn and spring smells different and intensely, while the winter forest is like a fairy tale. In strong winds, you can find shelter in the forest, and in calm weather, you can walk along the rocky seashore.”

Mari-Liis suggests starting the exploration of the village from the Käsmu shop, where it is convenient to leave the car. After the walk, it is worth trying food prepared by local housewives. For larger groups, meals can be arranged by reservation at the Käsmu Maritime Museum with Aarne and Triinu, while smaller groups are hosted by Mari-Liis in her yard at Helge farm.

Today’s Käsmu

Today, Käsmu is both a lively home village and a beloved cultural place. In summer, concerts and other events take place here, and in August, Viru Folk brings music, culture, lectures, workshops, and hikes to the village. Concert venues are located throughout the village, by the sea, and among the pine forests.

For a longer stay, you can find holiday homes and accommodation in Lainela holiday village. Meals are offered by the Kaspervik restaurant and the Käsmu shop.

If you want to learn more about the stories of Käsmu, explore the village with a local guide. Behind the captain’s houses, stones, forest paths, and the seashore, there are many stories that you might not notice just by walking through the village.